Fashion is art – period!
Fashion design, particularly couture fashion, can be described as wearable art installations and when an outfit is put together in a once-off or interesting way, that can be considered an ephemeral piece of art. All art is an expression of the innermost passions and emotions of the artist, and artists are generally deep-thinking people with a profound sensitivity to the world around them. It is therefore not that much of a stretch to imagine a UN humanitarian, pivoting to fashion design as a career move.
And Eylem Öykü Yildiran is a true humanitarian. Having braved a career as an Eligibility Officer for the UN Refugee Agency, Eylem has a profound understanding of the human condition. Working in all corners of the world including Niger and Algeria providing protection for people including those in detention centers of Libya, she was responsible for the destiny of many displaced people and the paths on which their lives would walk.
But Eylem was also walking her own path and after 6 years of guiding others, the time had come to look inward. She has seen firsthand how giving people a chance in life can empower them to survive and to thrive. But she also saw that self-empowerment was just as important. This is what drives Eylem, the desire to empower herself and therefore inspire others.
Her path to the academy began after arriving in the UK with only 4 months left on a contract. She wanted to stay but she needed a reason. She was on a personal quest and was looking for a sign. Her UN work has deeply reinforced her compassion for vulnerable people and her admiration for the resilience and courage in the face of life altering situations, and while people are central to her work, it was her own voice that began to shout the loudest.
Dancing into the future
But first there was dance! Before embarking on her fashion journey, Eylem spent 8 months travelling from Jazz and Blues festival to festival, moving her body and dancing. By day she was learning dance moves, and by night she was opening her mind and body by letting loose to the music. She was freestyling at festivals and allowing the artist within to fly.
When Eylem found the British Academy of Fashion Design, she was already in the throes of the most profound self-exploration. The questions “why” and “how” were rattling around inside and to this day, she lives by this ethos. She asks, why am I doing this and how will I do it? This has led her find her authentic means of expression and through fashion she is spreading this word.
Eylem is a naturally sociable person, so she found herself drawn to the Classroom-based study mode. She finds great value in the sense of community and simply loves people. In the classroom she can mix with like-minded people and form alliances for future collaborations or even just honest to goodness friendships.
Recently Eylem has launched her fashion brand “Slashed and More Slashed” which is an upcycling initiative involving the design of items made from offcuts and pre-loved fabrics and clothing. It was during her classroom experience that the idea arrived. Part of the curriculum is to experiment with fabric manipulation. The idea is to play with different materials and fabrics, rip them, pucker them whatever you want to do to see what different textures will emerge. When Eylem realized her use of basic calico, white string and white thread were not a simple random selection, but instead, these materials were a result of her choices, regardless of how absent mindedly it was done, the penny dropped. She knew then she could go wild with this idea and choose whatever she wanted. Soon it was pink satin and tearing and plucking into the shape of stylish clutch purses. Sustainability was always going to be central to her work. For Eylem it goes beyond “doing her bit for the environment”, as she had witnessed firsthand how refugees had been making a living using their only resources, their skills, and their crafts. She also wants to support and encourage smaller local businesses and help people feel they are valued and can make a substantial contribution to society.
Sustainability meets authenticity
Eylem says that her tutors were a great support to her as she figured out what areas she would pursue. Patricia Gomes is a lead tutor in the academy and throughout the course Eylem said she hounded Patricia with questions, constantly enquiring about different approaches and various niche areas she could explore. Patricia was always there, patiently advising and arming her with reading material, insights, and guidance.
Her other tutor Sophie Jones was also instrumental in helping her find her niche with “Slashed and More Slashed”.
Eylem’s ethos sounds like a brand slogan, and in some ways it is. She lives by the mantra “Say Yes Only to Yourself” but this is not a clever logline to sell products, this was born from Eylem’s response to societal and indeed bridal pressures to say yes to outside sources. She may still be searching, and her voyage may never end, but it seems that’s the way she wants it. Eylem’s destination is the journey, it is already inside her, she is not looking for an end, just a way to embrace the present. Never has a fledgling fashion designer had such a clear vision of them self. Eylem’s next move is to upcycle denim jackets and move towards skirts, bodices, and jewellery. One thing is for sure though, whatever Eylem puts her hand to, it is guaranteed to be nothing but authentic.